Alicia Kennedy, Food & Drink Writer


the endless quest for a perfect vegan egg

I think a lot, probably too much, about egg replacements in vegan baking. For Munchies last week, I looked at the super-popular aquafaba. For a few weeks, I've been experimenting here and there with Follow Your Heart's VeganEgg (they sent it to me to play with—hard to pass up), which is made of algae and smells so much like chicken eggs. I've made French toast with it, scrambled it up, and (my favorite) made a David Eyre pancake. These are all things that require a certain egginess that flax eggs, for example, don't really provide.

I haven't fallen in love with the product, though. It doesn't fit into my cooking life and I found its flavor in the scramble lacking. When you replace it 1:1 in certain recipes, like French toast, it creates so much moisture that the batter becomes less of a custard and more of a bread omelette. If you really enjoy its flavor and texture, it's worth playing with to get the right ratios. I like to create my own egg substitutes, tuned specifically for every recipe.

That said, here's the David Eyre pancake I used with it. It gave it great, moist texture and just enough subtle eggy flavor to bring me back to childhood. Adapted directly from the source recipe at the New York Times.

4 tablespoons VeganEgg + 1 cup cold water, whisked vigorously
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup cashew milk
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of nutmeg
45 grams refined coconut oil
Fruit for topping
Confectioner's sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine egg, flour, milk, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a bowl. 

2. Heat the coconut oil in a frying pan on the stove over medium heat. When it's melted and hot (a flick of water immediately sizzles in it), pour in the batter. Put it in the oven until the edges start to curl in, 15-20 minutes (it will not brown like a classic David Eyre in plain coconut oil; if you're using something like Miyoko's Kitchen Cultured Vegan Butter, it will). 

3. Remove from oven, top with fruit and powdered sugar.